Resurrection Ale House is justly celebrated for its top-notch beer list and its inspired kitchen. But on a menu full of ambitious bistro fare, the hamburger stands out for its simplicity: a beef patty on a challah bun with pickled red onions and, if you want, Swiss cheese. A generous pile of fries sits alongside, flanked by a ramekin of curry ketchup. Compared to some other burgers around town, this plate is audacious in its austerity. No fancy bacon. No mushrooms. No lettuce or tomato.
And this burger doesn't need any of that stuff. It's so damn good, just as it is. The beef is clearly of high quality, even if Resurrection doesn't brag about its provenance on the menu, and perfectly cooked to order. The cheese adds richness, the bun is pliant but sturdy enough to sop up the juices, and the pickled onion brings the finishing touch of sour depth. The fries are nicely cooked. The curry ketchup -- I need to find a recipe. It's addictive.