Its Hot Out There...

...make sure to hydrate

image via old chum

2011 Vintage Beer Brunch, in pictures

Memphis Taproom's 2011 Vintage Beer Brunch

Salmon Roe

watercress, rye, brown butter, dill, chicken skin

Brasserie de la Senne X-Mas Zinnebir 2009

Fried Pie

Sour cherry, green apple, cherry smoked brie, strong-ale syrup

Allagash Odyssey 2010

Jumbo Lump Crab

Truffled asparagus, burnt grapefruit, bibb, pickled egg vinaigrette

Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vieille 2005

Wild Maine Blueberry Bread Pudding

Grade B maple syrup, juniper whipped cream, Calva-blueberry preserves

't Smisje Calva Reserva 2010

Aged Cheese: Goat, Cow, Sheep

Cave-aged Intercourse, Lagrein, Fiore Sardo

Rosemary ash, herb salad, lard fried fig

Rodenbach Grand Cru 2008

Beer

Find more David Vandervelde albums at Myspace Music

Beer Garden

Sounds like Memphis is hiring. Who wants to slang dogs and cans?

A Song & A Beer

Mary Jane Girls - All Night Long

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St. Louis Gueuze (on tap @ Resurrection Ale House
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FUNK

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image credit

A Beer Makes You Feel Good

True statement.

image source

A Beer & A Song

Hill Farmstead Edward on tap at Memphis Taproom

Radio Dept - Heaven's On Fire (Live at Kexp)


image credit: Dan Cassaro

Kennett Restaurant

Last night brother Mal and I met up at Kennett Restaurant to begin work on our nanobrewery business plan, and we made some good progress on that score. Mal's lovely bride joined us for brainstorming and along the way we did some barnstorming of the menu.

Apropos of today's Meal Ticket feature on the new wood-burning oven at Kennett, we sampled the "porchetta" pizza: pulled pork, farmer's cheese, whipped lardo and herbs. The crust was nicely blistered and the lardo disappeared into the other toppings, lending them a salty, piggy perfume.

Porchetta pizza

Business planning can give a man an appetite. So despite the pizza's richness, we sampled a few other items: the puy lentil salad, brussels sprouts, and roasted parsnips, in addition to the burger.

Puy lentil salad

Roasted brussels sprouts and sunchokes with bacon and crushed coriander

Roasted parsnips with parmesan

The burger is topped with bibb lettuce, pickled onion and anchovy mayonnaise. The latter lends a rich and savory counterpoint to the onion. Our specimen was cooked to a perfect medium-rare; the addition of bone marrow to the beef means that cheese isn't necessary.

Burger with bone marrow, pickled onion and anchovy mayonnaise

In addition to all the great food, the beer list is impressive. We sipped on Yards Love Stout (a fine choice when served on nitrogen), Left Hand Fade to Black Smoked Baltic Porter and Long Trail Hibernator Ale.

The nattily dressed staff was cheerful and attentive, the dining room cozy from Edison bulbs and the glow of the pizza oven. Kennett is one of those spots that make me wish I lived in the neighborhood. I look forward to returning soon to sample more of the menu.

Kennett Restaurant

848 S. 2nd St.

Philadelphia, PA 19147

267-687-1426

This Week In Whisky

New Whisky in the News: According to the UK's Daily Mail, Panamanian-based Scotch Spirits has begun selling their whiskey in a 12 oz. aluminum can to their South American and Caribbean markets. The CEO stated, "The can is the perfect size to be shared between three people who can mix it with other things like cola." That was definitely the first thing that popped into my mind when I thought of a can of whisky. The dram may not be long for the grocery shelf, however, as the Scotch Whisky Association is looking into a ban of the product. Full story here.

Old Old Whisky in the News: In the early 1900s, Ernest Shackleton and his crew attempted to reach the South Pole. They didn't make it. So like any pioneers would, they left a few cases of spirits, including whisky, brandy and port, behind. And up until last year, the cases went unnoticed and stayed preserved in the Antarctic Ice. They were discovered and returned to Scotland and are set to be drunk for science's sake. Distillers are interested in learning about the whisky distillation process in the 19th century and are looking at possibly recreating it for mass consumption. Watch whisky blender Richard Paterson get his nose all up in a glass of the 100+ year old dram.

I spent last weekend with my friend Dennis in New York. He had a hankering for a flight of bourbon, so we looked around the interwebs for a suitable establishment. We settled on the Whiskey Ward, which by name alone seemed quite appropriate. Located in the Lower East Side, the bar lets you choose 3 spirits for 1 oz. tastings each. We chose 2 bourbons- Pappy Van Winkle 12 year and George T. Stagg- and a rye- High West. Both of the bourbons are distilled by Buffalo Trace, a fine maker of all things whiskey. The Pappy Van Winkle was a clear favorite for both of us. It had a deep red, amorous coloring and it had just the right amount of smoke in the finish. The George T. Stagg was heavier, both in look and in taste, and it lingered long in the palate. The High West Rye was a nice subtle complement to the more complex bourbons. I would recommend any of these spirits on a cold night, and I would readily return to The Whiskey Ward.

Finally, here is a video of a giant puppet walking stumbling around Dromore West, Co. Sligo, Ireland. I am almost positive whisky has something to do with this.

Number One Gastropub in Tri-State Area

Came across this listing for an executive chef on craigslist...

If you are the greatest thing since fermentation, if your food can outpace the world's greatest beers, we have a professional position for you.

You will head up the restaurant back of house operations preparing award winning food at a fair price with speedy courteous service. You will develop half the menu and the other half of the menu will be our proven successful recipes you will perfectly execute. You will manage kitchen P&L and get perfect scores on Health Inspections.

You can get in at the very beginning helping select the perfect equipment for an already built out location to ensure we are the number one Gastro pub in the Tri State Area. 

Wonder who's behind this project...and where the "already built out location" is...
And also what the heck does "food that can outpace the world's greatest beers" mean?

Saint-Sylvestre 2010, or NYE @ Bibou

Lori and I had the great fortune of getting seats at Bibou's New Years Eve dinner last Friday. It happened quite spontaneously. I was lunching with Brother Tim when he got a Twitter alert that they had a last minute cancellation. I was told it would be an 8 course meal with seatings at 5:30pm or 9:00pm. I opted for the 9pm, which turned out to be the better choice in my humble opinion.

It's difficult to choose standouts from an entire meal of incredible dishes. The amuse-bouche of hamachi, paddlefish caviar and creme fraiche was a great start. Followed very well by foie gras terrine with persimmon chutney. My favorites of the night, though, were the perfectly seared venison with mushroom fricassée, chestnut and celeriac puree, and the pumpkin bread, blue cheese and dried figs Mille-feuille for dessert. A full menu of the night is right below.


As 2011 approached, Charlotte brought out festive noisemakers and hats as well as complimentary champagne for everyone in attendance. The whole room rang out in cheers and celebration, the end to a night of true conviviality. But the night was only half over.

We took our time paying the bill and the room slowly emptied. Before we knew it, the restaurant was closed and we were still inside talking to Chef Pierre, Charlotte and the wait staff. I have never met such an honest, hardworking and hospitable group of people in all of my dining experiences. I had a hard time not gushing to Pierre about how much I loved everything. I think I used the word fantastic a few dozen times.

By the time we did leave it was well into the morning and we had to walk a bit to find a cab ride home. But we left with our spirits and stomachs full. Quite a way to begin a new year and a new decade.

MEATBALLS.COM

Walking past the now defunct Spaghetti Warehouse (I was sure that it would be the next ironic place for people to go for cheap drinks, alas) I saw one of them bright orange liquor license placards in the window. The name on the transfer read "Union Transfer LLC." Couldn't find anymore info on teh intertubes, but I am keeping my fingers and toes crossed that the new owners do something a little more interesting than a family feedbag establishment. Perhaps the building could be restored to its former usage as a farmer's market; or perhaps a brewpub could take advantage of the ample space and high ceilings. Lord knows that Spring Garden east of Broad needs something. Let us pray.

UPDATE: Union Transfer LLC shares a registered address with 4 Corners Management, the company behind such establishments as Lucy's Hat Shop and the assorted Drinkers Taverns. So Spring Garden east of Broad will be getting something ... just probably not something interesting.

Tonight: DBBD Firkin at Fork n' Barrel

Holy crap! This collaboration between Dogfish + Del Borgo + Baladin sounds amazing! I'll let the folks from Fork & Barrel tell the rest of the story:

We have one of 5 FIRKINS that came into the country from Italy. This is a special collaboration brew between dogfish head, baladin, and del borgo. It is a sample of what is to come (March) in the brewpub in Manhattan called EATALY. $6 a glass.

Oh and they're also doing a food drive for Philabundance. 
Nice! Now I need to check the bus schedule out to East Falls...


Check out the rest of the details after the jump.

Luna di Miele

I was married on October 16th. The next evening my wife (still feels novel to type that word) and I boarded a plane to Rome. We spent two weeks in Italy traveling by train and bus. We ate our way from Rome to Turin (where we somehow survived a seven hours long gorge-fest at Slow Food's Salone del Gusto); from Turin to Bologna; Bologna to Montella (including a marathon lunch prepared by Amanda's relatives); Montella to Abruzzo; and finally from Abruzzo back to Rome. We encountered so much good food/beer/wine/hospitality. Here are some pictures (food/beer/wine related) from our trip. Cheers!

Brew Masters of the Universe

A friend sent us a heads up about this new show, Brew Masters, on Discovery Channel. Here's the description from the website:

Join Sam Calagione, craft beer maestro and founder of Dogfish Head Brewery, as he and his partners in suds travel the world searching for exotic ingredients and discovering ancient techniques to produce beers of astounding originality.

Kind of makes it sound like it will be a cross between Ace of Cakes and No Reservations. I'll definitely be tuning in!

Brew Masters premiers this Sunday, November 21 @ 10 PM on the Discovery Channel.

Belated Weekend Review

Friday

Checked out Fork & Barrel.

Saturday

Got in some late season wiffle ball on a glorious Saturday afternoon then biked over to Johnny Brendas for their "Wet Hop Rodeo." Had a Weyerbacher Harvest Ale, a Brewworks Harvest Ale and a Troeg's Wet Hop. Then a drunk girl from the craft beer express knocked our outdoor table over (glasses and all). Check please!

Sunday

New Job Celebratory Brunch for the Wife at Amis - Buffala ricotta bruschetta, carbonara, raviolo all'uovo. Washed down with a Victory Yakima Glory (Black Double IPA). Not the best choice for a breakfast beer but tasty nonetheless. Then we accepted a random invitation to Mazowsze at the Kimmel, which was described to me as the Polish version of Riverdance - though that is a little unkind to Mazowsze. It was pretty amazing. The show featured colorful costumes, acrobatic dancing and an impressive 15-piece band that played selections of music representing the different regions of Poland . After that we went home and did laundry and cooked Spaghetti all'Amatriciana (because the pork jowl in the carbonara wasn't enough) with guanciale from La Quercia. Num nums.

An Open Letter to Fork & Barrel

Dear Fork & Barrel,

I want to live behind your handsome bar. I'll find a dark corner (there are so many thanks to your abhorrence of electric light) and I won't bother anyone. I can even scrape the wax drippings from the many candles off your floor and bar. I think all that wax scraping will leave me with a terrible thirst, so naturally I'll have to have some of your amazing and rare draft selections (Grado Plato Strada Felice, IT; Porterhouse Oyster Stout, IR). And I hope you won't mind if I have some salt potatoes while I'm at it. Those whole roast spuds with the bleu cheese mustard dipping sauce are addictive. Anyway, let me know when I can move in.

Awaiting your reply,

Malachy Egan

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Fork & Barrel

4312 Ridge Ave

Philadelphia 19129

Khyber Pass Pub Preview

Last night the brothers Egan were fortunate enough to score an invitation to a preview of the Khyber's newest, most southern-fried incarnation. Walking up 2nd St. we saw the old black and white Khyber signage being removed.

Upon entering the newly re-renamed Khyber Pass Pub it appears as though not much has changed. Still the same old beautiful bar with lots of great craft beer tap handles. It's a little cleaner and the bathrooms have (mercifully) been made over and now feature locks and functioning plumbing.

Really, it's when one turns the corner and enters the old performance space that the work that Steve Simons and co. put into the place becomes apparent. The long narrow room features banquettes on both sides and beadboard wainscotting. The formerly flyer'd over windows have been cleaned and the woodwork repainted. The new wood floors and the roughly finished tables looked fantastic in the dimly lit room. The space still feels a bit raw - the tin ceiling may yet get a paint job, some of the light fixtures were not installed - but overall it's remarkably inviting given its prior state. (Check out Mealticket's pictures from last night as they remembered to bring a camera that is not also a phone. Whoopsie Goldberg)

While perusing menus, we snacked on bacon fat popcorn with cajun spices. The glistening popped kernels packed some heat and were well salted. This brown bag snack might rival the truffled version from chef Mark McKinney's sister kitchen at the Royal Tavern.

We tried a few things from the regular menu as well. The fried chicken was far and away the favorite. The salty, crispy skin concealed some incredibly moist, succulent meat, and the collard greens were a surprise hit with a generous amount of smokey bacon. We also tried the gumbo and the fried oysters, which were solid choices.

Needing something sweet to counter all the fried food, we tried three desserts: chocolate pecan bread pudding (a must-have), bourbon-maple creme brulee (as awesome as it sounds) and vegan red velvet cake (a little dry with overly sweet icing).

Some beer highlights from a really interesting and diverse list of taps:

• Ballast Point "Even Keel" - A generously hopped session ale. Maybe the most memorable beer of the night. Incredible grapefruit/citrus aroma, juicy and herbal (notes of hibiscus) and wonderfully refreshing.
• Two Brothers "Heavy Handed" - A delicious harvest ale. Hoppy, straw colored with a nice foamy head. A nice counterpoint to the spicy bacon-fat popped kernels.
• Dock Street "West of Center" - On hand pump. Due to the malt character of this dark brew we mistook this for a bitter; but according to Dock St. it is a ("Not-So") Pale Ale. Great beer for a blustery, rainy Monday.
• Philadelphia Brewing Co. "Harvest from the Hood" - Neither overly sweet nor hoppy. Well-balanced with a roasted malt character. Possibly the best beer PBC has ever put out.

Overall the Khyber felt like a comfortable extension of the Royal Tavern in appearance, food and vibe. We look forward to trying more of the menu and seeing how the beer program develops.

Thanks to the folks at the Khyber for hosting and treating us.

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The Khyber Pass Pub

56 S. Second St.

Philadelphia, PA

Night Market Fever

Checked out the Night Market at Tasker and Passyunk. It has been written up here and much hyped throughout the philadelphia food blogoverse. I'm not as down on the outcome as some commenters seem to be. While I definitely think there is room for improvement (serving size, price point, lines, running out of booze/charging too much for booze) there was also so much good to take away from it all. Most impressive: the mass of people what came out on a school night for an event that focused on promoting local food businesses. The walk from the BSL to the Sinatra fountain felt a little like the walk from AT&T Station (nee Pattison) to Citizens Bank Park (minus the corporate sponsorship). One final thought: The Food Trust should make this a regular event. Great European cities have outdoor night markets all year - even through the winter months. We can do it too! Philadelphia obviously wants - NO! NEEDS - more night markets.

Intriguing

Is "great southern food" the new concept for the Khyber?

As seen on Craigslist.